Glues We Use
by Albert Türtscher
Nothing works in model building without gluing. There is an almost bewildering variety of adhesives out there, and everyone has their own favorites. Here we present adhesives that we prefer to use.
I use UHU plus endfest 300 for connections where high strength of the bond is a must, such as the chassis, snow blade and equipment carrier. This epoxy adhesive can be hardened under heat in the oven and thus achieve strength of the adhesive seam in the area of soldered joints.
But be careful, there are two versions of it on the market:
- UHU plus endfest (you can get it almost everywhere)
- UHU plus endfest 300 (only for commercial use)
“300” is crucial here, this is the heat-curable variant. You can get this on Amazon, for example. Both look almost the same, see pictures.
Here is a table of curing times and achievable bond strength at different temperatures. A part can be bonded under heat in several stages, but a previous bond will soften again at the temperature at which it was previously cured. This is usually not a problem, unless the gluing was done under tension, e.g. if you had to fix two sheet metal parts with a clamp so that they stay together at all. It is then advisable to choose a lower temperature for subsequent bonding. Printed parts made of nylon can be glued up to 100°C.
The adhesive becomes thin like water when heated, so place the workpiece in the oven in such a way that the adhesive cannot run off.
Excess glue can be removed with spirit or isopropyl before curing, I always have small scraps of an old t-shirt and cotton swabs on hand.
These are also indispensable in model building. It is important to pay attention to good quality, eg Loctite glue, because there are significant differences. I am currently using the super glue that Pistenking offers. When gluing with UHU plus endfest 300, it is often advantageous if you first fix the parts with super glue. Then attach UHU plus along the adhesive seam and place the part in the oven. UHU plus then runs into the adhesive joint.
For gluing window panes and other transparent parts I use Micro Kristal Klear from Microscale Industries. This is intended for plastic models and dries crystal clear. It looks like white wood glue, I guess wood glue is probably just as suitable ;-)
Available on Amazon or in model shops.
Sometimes something goes wrong when gluing. UHU plus and super glue can be easily separated again under heat, simply apply a blowtorch to the glued area and the parts can be separated. Sand clean and try again.
ATTENTION: the fumes from heating super glue are harmful to your health!
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